Tuesday 13 December 2011
All in the name of controlling pollution, cleaner air and greener environment..
So lets pass engine oil spray, exhaust fumes, unburnt airfuel mix, carbon and anything else which sludges up and carbonises the engine in your throttle body.
In short lets just make the engine eat its own shit ..
Hell of a way of recycling the crap coming out of the engine and keeping the environment clean.
Think I'm joking guys ? Why would manufacturers do this ?don't they know whats good for their engines ? you dont think Honda/Toyota/Nissan/BMW/Mercedes etc dont know how to make cars ?
Of course they know how to make engines.. but to meet pollution/emission standards they need to do all this.
..Aanything and everything which is bad for the engine is being done, it is being passed back into your throttle body for a second pass to ensure nothing escapes into the clean green fresh environment.
Apart from the fumes and exhaust gasses its the engine oil and blow back which is also a major contributor to the crap we feed into our throttle bodies.
Let me explain in more detail.. I'm sure at the end of this every petrol head is going to open his throttlebody and clean it, or atleast put his finger behind the throttle plate to see how much crap is being recycled..
probably the more insane/extreme petrolheads will reroute the breathers/pcv's/egr's etc ..
Lets get into the details..
Starting with the basics -Whatever is fed into the intake or the throttlebody will find its way into the injectors and coat the inner parts of the intake plenum and the runners.
[I should include a diagram here..I'll do it later..]
This is what is found in ur typical stock intake system in this order, this is how the path of air flows through your system, the red highlighted ones are the entry points from where the crap is fed into your system.
Anything downstream of these entruy points gets a decent dose of the oily gunk..
(a)resonator(commonlyfound)/airbox
(b)intake pipe with IAT(intake air temp sensor)
(c)throttlbody inlet
(d)throttle plate conected to TPS(throttle position sensor)
(e)map sensor
(f)throttle body(main barrel)
(g)intake runners
(h)injectors
(i)intake valves
-Now, what is actualy being recirculated ?
Cocktail of the following :
(a) Blowback directly into the TB
(b) Exhaust fumes courtesy of the EGR directly into the TB
(c) Oil splashes courtesy of the PCV directly into the TB
(d) Oil splashes courtesy of the breather directly into the TB or upstream into the intake pipe
<to be continued..>
In short lets just make the engine eat its own shit ..
Hell of a way of recycling the crap coming out of the engine and keeping the environment clean.
Think I'm joking guys ? Why would manufacturers do this ?don't they know whats good for their engines ? you dont think Honda/Toyota/Nissan/BMW/Mercedes etc dont know how to make cars ?
Of course they know how to make engines.. but to meet pollution/emission standards they need to do all this.
..Aanything and everything which is bad for the engine is being done, it is being passed back into your throttle body for a second pass to ensure nothing escapes into the clean green fresh environment.
Apart from the fumes and exhaust gasses its the engine oil and blow back which is also a major contributor to the crap we feed into our throttle bodies.
Let me explain in more detail.. I'm sure at the end of this every petrol head is going to open his throttlebody and clean it, or atleast put his finger behind the throttle plate to see how much crap is being recycled..
probably the more insane/extreme petrolheads will reroute the breathers/pcv's/egr's etc ..
Lets get into the details..
Starting with the basics -Whatever is fed into the intake or the throttlebody will find its way into the injectors and coat the inner parts of the intake plenum and the runners.
[I should include a diagram here..I'll do it later..]
This is what is found in ur typical stock intake system in this order, this is how the path of air flows through your system, the red highlighted ones are the entry points from where the crap is fed into your system.
Anything downstream of these entruy points gets a decent dose of the oily gunk..
(a)resonator(commonlyfound)/airbox
(b)intake pipe with IAT(intake air temp sensor)
(c)throttlbody inlet
(d)throttle plate conected to TPS(throttle position sensor)
(e)map sensor
(f)throttle body(main barrel)
(g)intake runners
(h)injectors
(i)intake valves
-Now, what is actualy being recirculated ?
Cocktail of the following :
(a) Blowback directly into the TB
(b) Exhaust fumes courtesy of the EGR directly into the TB
(c) Oil splashes courtesy of the PCV directly into the TB
(d) Oil splashes courtesy of the breather directly into the TB or upstream into the intake pipe
<to be continued..>
Approach to tuning/types of tuning
I'm trying to categorize the types/levels of tuning into categories..
If you are in a hurry ..skip to any step u feel like, but for others who would want to build their machines one step at a time, understand how their machines behave after each upgrade..and really want to experience the actual process of tuning ..try the following steps
1st get the stock machine to factory specs, make sure the base on which we are going to build our car is worthy of the upgrades ?
This includes :
a) Checking the engine - how much life it has left in it, do a compression test
b) Chasis
c) Body
d) Suspension and steering
<to be continued..>
If you are in a hurry ..skip to any step u feel like, but for others who would want to build their machines one step at a time, understand how their machines behave after each upgrade..and really want to experience the actual process of tuning ..try the following steps
1st get the stock machine to factory specs, make sure the base on which we are going to build our car is worthy of the upgrades ?
This includes :
a) Checking the engine - how much life it has left in it, do a compression test
b) Chasis
c) Body
d) Suspension and steering
<to be continued..>
Saturday 22 October 2011
best road trips so far ..only pix
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Wisconsin deserted freeways.. |
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| bear mountain , New york |
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| thanksgiving time, drive thru griffith park in LA |
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| La Jolla, on the way to San Diego |
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| LA to Vegas through the Mojave desert.. |
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| Snow in Minnesotta, try driving with a FR layout with summer tyres :-) |
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| Driving around Times square, get to see some awesome exotic sports cars |
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| beautiful old bridge on the way from Pasadena to LA |
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| San Diego |
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| Solvang..really worth the drive from SantaBarbara |
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| awesome senic drive to St Croix from Minneapolis.. |
F1 - is it really such a big deal ?
Don't know why everyone makes such a big deal out of F1 racing ?
I find it pretty boring ..
It's not that I dont understand it so I'm calling it boring .. I gave it a fair amount of time to really understand it.
I even tried to understand what other saw in it in case I was still missing the point; I gave it my best effort to understand what makes it so exciting ..
I spoke to some hardcore F1 fans..and asked what's in ths sport that makes it so exciting ? I'd like to join the F1 party ..what part of F1 am I not getting.
I was told - stuff like Driver skill, Race strategy, Pit stops, challenging tracks, the beauty of a F1 car and the way it sounds etc, the danger involved etc
To all of these points
I find it pretty boring ..
It's not that I dont understand it so I'm calling it boring .. I gave it a fair amount of time to really understand it.
I even tried to understand what other saw in it in case I was still missing the point; I gave it my best effort to understand what makes it so exciting ..
I spoke to some hardcore F1 fans..and asked what's in ths sport that makes it so exciting ? I'd like to join the F1 party ..what part of F1 am I not getting.
I was told - stuff like Driver skill, Race strategy, Pit stops, challenging tracks, the beauty of a F1 car and the way it sounds etc, the danger involved etc
To all of these points
US Diesel Nationals - September 18 2010
 |
| couldn't tell if they were drag racing or hauling load ..? |
 |
| after a few runs ..I stopped clicking, it was too boring |
 |
| jet engined dragsters starting up..more interesting then the diesels.. |
 |
| one of the monsters warming up.. |
 |
| monster trucks doing their thing. |
 |
| another round of the dragsters.. |
 |
| a beautiful long nose peterbilt specimen.. |
 |
behind the scenes, big tyres are replaced with smaller ones to help move the trucks around in the pit area |
 |
| smaller tyres, note the suspension.. |
 |
| closeup of the jet dragster |
 |
its just a basic chasis with a jet engine bolted on and a 1 peice body on top..so simple.. |
 |
| that torpedo shaped thingy is the fuel tank, just enough for 400 metres.. |
Saturday 15 October 2011
Tuesday 4 October 2011
Not joking ..but the smell from your car can tell a lot..
For people who have sensitive/sharp sense of smell thsi could be helpfull:
1] Smell of burnt cardboard/paper : Your clutch is burning
2] Smell of engine oil : Either some seal/gasket is gone and spraying on the hot engine bay
3] Burnt oil : Either u have not changed your oil and its buning up or there is some issue with your engine and oil has managed to reach the hot exhaust (this will also show as white smoke)
4] Sweet toxic smell : Coolant has spilled onto something hot, probably your coolant hose is leaking or something has damaged the radator.
5] Burnt rubber : :-) You have been having fun..
1] Smell of burnt cardboard/paper : Your clutch is burning
2] Smell of engine oil : Either some seal/gasket is gone and spraying on the hot engine bay
3] Burnt oil : Either u have not changed your oil and its buning up or there is some issue with your engine and oil has managed to reach the hot exhaust (this will also show as white smoke)
4] Sweet toxic smell : Coolant has spilled onto something hot, probably your coolant hose is leaking or something has damaged the radator.
5] Burnt rubber : :-) You have been having fun..
Building a fast street car .. otherway around
I see a lot .. or actually 99% of people trying to make fast street car in a very haphazard unorganised manner.There is no planning/calculation done by these people..just bolton any crap in any order as per availability in random order in favourite color which sounds cool...something like that.
Sounds like a very vague description but then a vague behaviour/pattern cannot be described in a more precise and technical manner.
The title of the post says ..otherway around ..this is exactly opposite of what the people do.
What does a typical tuner/ricer/newbie enthusiast do ?
<..more to come >
Sounds like a very vague description but then a vague behaviour/pattern cannot be described in a more precise and technical manner.
The title of the post says ..otherway around ..this is exactly opposite of what the people do.
What does a typical tuner/ricer/newbie enthusiast do ?
<..more to come >
Sunday 2 October 2011
deciding which car to buy
Deciding on a car can be quite a tough decision..
I'd begin by asking what are you really looking for ? Do you love cars or just the status of owning a particular type/brand of car
Where I'm getting to ? Do you want to show you have made it and need a status symbol to show to the world you have arrived and can afford a premium priced expensive car ? IF so you dont need to do read further -simply buy the most expensive one in your price range.
If you are looking for something specific and need some help in deciding what you need from a set of different options..this maybe helpful for you.
The most important of all - Intial impression without knowing any specs, just the gut feel and what it means to you:
What thoughts does that brand name bring to you ? E.g the name brings images of luxurious leather ineriors, comfortable suspension, etc etc Or antilag systems, rev match downshifts, exhaust burble etc etc..
This is most important as you will be investing a major chunk of your paycheck and will be living with it for the next few years -its got to feel right from inside, its got to mean something to you.
Think - are you buying it due to peer pressure or some friends reccomending it to you etc.
If you are blank and are not inclined towards any particular model then its a matter of time you will realise what you want and will be stuck with something which does not suit you.Tust me on this..
Spend some time asking yourself what really matters to you ?
If you know for sure and have an image of what you need exactly then the 1st hurdle is past we will go ahead and analyse if that image in your mind would really translate into the same real world performance..
If not - take some test drives, read some reviews, look at some images/vids of the cars and see which way you wold prefer..
Advertised specs and statistics:Higher bhp numbers mean nothing, you can read about it here in more detail.
Its the weight,gearing, final drive, tyre size and vehicle dynamics is what determines a faster car.
If you are looking for bragging rights on hi horsepower figures - then I'd say go ahead but then my next question would be what you thinking of doing with that kind of power ? Can you even use it on the road/track/dragstrip and how would you feel if a car with a lower bhp figure beat you in all aspects ?
Would you still feel proud with a car/engine with hi bhp stats but not particularly fast anywhere else ?
As a general thumb rule -
(I) More torque and wider power band at lower rpms at around 1500 to 3500 is what everyone needs 99% of the time not peak horsepower at a particular spike of engine rpm.
(II)Less wt is better
Keeping this in mind ..and analyse the advertised specs.
Also at this stage instead of just declaring the winner here based on the specs I will ask you "what kind of a driver are you ?"
(a)You usually have the music system on and love to cruise at moderate speeds in city traffic
(b)You do mostly city driving but love to race around
(c)You do mostly city driving and keep an eye on the mileage
(d)Not much of city driving but mostly expressways/highways etc in a realxed way
(e) You dont drive and will be in the back seat.
(f)Not much of city driving but mostly expressways/highways etc as if trying to set a land speed record.
(g)You are a petrol head , or an enthusiast who has just started into the world of cars..
Based on your driving style and profile see where the engine makes the most torque ? does it match with your driving style ? forget the concept of more hp is better it doesnt work that way always.
Also remember even if a heavier car has more power and torque than a lighter one the lighter one will feel much better in terms of handling and braking as the vehicle dynamics matter the most when you are pushing it.
A better handling car is more fun as you can actually use the entire power of that engine as compared to a bulky heavier more powerful car.
E.g you maybe able to lay down only 70% of the power down on the road with a heavy car as compared to a lighter well handling car which could lay down 100% of the power on the road with confidence and some more to spare.
<to be continued ..wife is going to kick my ass>
I'd begin by asking what are you really looking for ? Do you love cars or just the status of owning a particular type/brand of car
Where I'm getting to ? Do you want to show you have made it and need a status symbol to show to the world you have arrived and can afford a premium priced expensive car ? IF so you dont need to do read further -simply buy the most expensive one in your price range.
If you are looking for something specific and need some help in deciding what you need from a set of different options..this maybe helpful for you.
The most important of all - Intial impression without knowing any specs, just the gut feel and what it means to you:
What thoughts does that brand name bring to you ? E.g the name brings images of luxurious leather ineriors, comfortable suspension, etc etc Or antilag systems, rev match downshifts, exhaust burble etc etc..
This is most important as you will be investing a major chunk of your paycheck and will be living with it for the next few years -its got to feel right from inside, its got to mean something to you.
Think - are you buying it due to peer pressure or some friends reccomending it to you etc.
If you are blank and are not inclined towards any particular model then its a matter of time you will realise what you want and will be stuck with something which does not suit you.Tust me on this..
Spend some time asking yourself what really matters to you ?
If you know for sure and have an image of what you need exactly then the 1st hurdle is past we will go ahead and analyse if that image in your mind would really translate into the same real world performance..
If not - take some test drives, read some reviews, look at some images/vids of the cars and see which way you wold prefer..
Advertised specs and statistics:Higher bhp numbers mean nothing, you can read about it here in more detail.
Its the weight,gearing, final drive, tyre size and vehicle dynamics is what determines a faster car.
If you are looking for bragging rights on hi horsepower figures - then I'd say go ahead but then my next question would be what you thinking of doing with that kind of power ? Can you even use it on the road/track/dragstrip and how would you feel if a car with a lower bhp figure beat you in all aspects ?
Would you still feel proud with a car/engine with hi bhp stats but not particularly fast anywhere else ?
As a general thumb rule -
(I) More torque and wider power band at lower rpms at around 1500 to 3500 is what everyone needs 99% of the time not peak horsepower at a particular spike of engine rpm.
(II)Less wt is better
Keeping this in mind ..and analyse the advertised specs.
Also at this stage instead of just declaring the winner here based on the specs I will ask you "what kind of a driver are you ?"
(a)You usually have the music system on and love to cruise at moderate speeds in city traffic
(b)You do mostly city driving but love to race around
(c)You do mostly city driving and keep an eye on the mileage
(d)Not much of city driving but mostly expressways/highways etc in a realxed way
(e) You dont drive and will be in the back seat.
(f)Not much of city driving but mostly expressways/highways etc as if trying to set a land speed record.
(g)You are a petrol head , or an enthusiast who has just started into the world of cars..
Based on your driving style and profile see where the engine makes the most torque ? does it match with your driving style ? forget the concept of more hp is better it doesnt work that way always.
Also remember even if a heavier car has more power and torque than a lighter one the lighter one will feel much better in terms of handling and braking as the vehicle dynamics matter the most when you are pushing it.
A better handling car is more fun as you can actually use the entire power of that engine as compared to a bulky heavier more powerful car.
E.g you maybe able to lay down only 70% of the power down on the road with a heavy car as compared to a lighter well handling car which could lay down 100% of the power on the road with confidence and some more to spare.
<to be continued ..wife is going to kick my ass>
Thursday 29 September 2011
Old school or outdated ? are modern engines with new technology taking the fun out of being a petrolhead ?
What would you really prefer ?
A new modern engine or an old school or as some may call it "outdated" engine ?
Being a petrol head sometimes means not being so modern also..
I'd love engines which are not so "cutting edge".. by now probably u must be assuming this guy is too old to even blog here..
Some of the modern engines take the fun out of owning and mantaining a car.
E.g the igition systems of the older vehicles which came with a mechanical/vacum advance .. it is probably more fun for the petrohead to tune it and get it with right dwell angle, maybe tweak the distributor with diff aftermarket parts to alter the advance curve etc
It was probably more work, less accurate, lower performance but probably more DIY thingies for the "car nut"
More modern engines came with the distributor and the ECU based advance curve control..
Not much to tweak unless we have a laptop or a aftermarket programmable ignition system.. fine - still fun but not so analog or "get your hands dirty" type of fun.
This stil leaves some room for some teweaks to the base/static ignition via distributor.. this is still ok.
Fast forward to newer engines with a coil on plug - no distributor, direct ECU trigger for the right spark timing, no mechanical tolerances in the picture - efficient , reliable but fully digital.
Works well but there is no longer the "hands on" feel to this..
Moving on to tappets/valve clearances ..Love the tweaks/mods which and the regular tappets
Self compensating hydraulic tappets ... will definately miss the feeler gauge and the guesswork how much clearance will work best ..of course within the range specified by the manufacturer
Fueling : tweaking the A/F ratio via the carb instead of the fuelling maps via the ECU.. this is very efficient and I love this more than the carb.
Here its ok to be a bit modern, but for the more hardcore older gen tuners probably this is more fun - and I have respect for these guys - its much tougher getting it right with the carbs.
I like the ease in and accuracy with which we can tune the curves ..probably Im leaning towards modern engines here.
Coming to garboxes - what the hell is going on ??? is this a joke ?
Hardcore , purpose built cars not having manual gearboxes.. look at the silly 6 speed twin clutch Evox, what u guys upto? New gen GTR comes with only an autobox.
Higher up the food chain the mightt Astons/Ferraris going all paddle shifters ?
Future doesn't look good.
A new modern engine or an old school or as some may call it "outdated" engine ?
Being a petrol head sometimes means not being so modern also..
I'd love engines which are not so "cutting edge".. by now probably u must be assuming this guy is too old to even blog here..
Some of the modern engines take the fun out of owning and mantaining a car.
E.g the igition systems of the older vehicles which came with a mechanical/vacum advance .. it is probably more fun for the petrohead to tune it and get it with right dwell angle, maybe tweak the distributor with diff aftermarket parts to alter the advance curve etc
It was probably more work, less accurate, lower performance but probably more DIY thingies for the "car nut"
More modern engines came with the distributor and the ECU based advance curve control..
Not much to tweak unless we have a laptop or a aftermarket programmable ignition system.. fine - still fun but not so analog or "get your hands dirty" type of fun.
This stil leaves some room for some teweaks to the base/static ignition via distributor.. this is still ok.
Fast forward to newer engines with a coil on plug - no distributor, direct ECU trigger for the right spark timing, no mechanical tolerances in the picture - efficient , reliable but fully digital.
Works well but there is no longer the "hands on" feel to this..
Moving on to tappets/valve clearances ..Love the tweaks/mods which and the regular tappets
Self compensating hydraulic tappets ... will definately miss the feeler gauge and the guesswork how much clearance will work best ..of course within the range specified by the manufacturer
Fueling : tweaking the A/F ratio via the carb instead of the fuelling maps via the ECU.. this is very efficient and I love this more than the carb.
Here its ok to be a bit modern, but for the more hardcore older gen tuners probably this is more fun - and I have respect for these guys - its much tougher getting it right with the carbs.
I like the ease in and accuracy with which we can tune the curves ..probably Im leaning towards modern engines here.
Coming to garboxes - what the hell is going on ??? is this a joke ?
Hardcore , purpose built cars not having manual gearboxes.. look at the silly 6 speed twin clutch Evox, what u guys upto? New gen GTR comes with only an autobox.
Higher up the food chain the mightt Astons/Ferraris going all paddle shifters ?
Future doesn't look good.
Horsepower means nothing, dont buy a car just because it has a higher Bhp/PS number
Car 1 has 20 BHP more than car2 .. simple, car1 has more power definately its faster.
They weigh approximately the same etc.
if you are an enthusiast that just about sounds like the right recipie.
I too used to compare the BHP figures and think that more power is better.
This not just applies to buying cars but also aftermarket modifications and tuning.
If you are the techie types - you may even look at the manufacturer's or tuner's dyno chart to confirm which car has more power.
Guys there is more to it -much more.
Lets start with the basics :
1] Engines dont make BHP. Period. Engines make torque.
2] The pistons convert the Air/Fuel explosion into downward motion, the crank converts this "kick" into rotational motion. This rotational motion turns your fly wheel, the gearbox connects to flywheel via the clutch and transfers power to the wheels which then rotate.
3] The important point in the above point is rotational force generated by the engine. This is torque in a simplified description.
4] What about BHP ? oh ya forgot about that - its calculated off the torque..
hp = [torque x rpm ] / 5252
The combination of torque and rpm results in power..
5]Simply put - going faster means accelarating harder and quickly. It's this rate of change of speed gives us accelaration = faster car.
6]BHP advertised is always the max power that can be generated by an engine, the question we should be asking is at what rpm ? i.e at what speed the engine must be running at to actually use this power ?
Remember point no 4 , Hp= resultant of rpm and torque.
We could be getting 300 bhp at say 6800 rpm from car1 Vs 240 bhp @ 5500 rpm from car2
Here we need to ask 3 questions:
(a) How long does it take to reach this 6800 rpm as its way up in the rpm range ?
It takes time to build up this rpm, you could end up spending more time waiting to reach this high engine speed only after which you would experience this power..Also during every gear change the engine rpm would drop and again you would spend time building up the speed to reach that range.
Its like climbing a mountain for 8hrs, reaching the peak and spending 2 minutes at the peak before sliding off.. and again having to restart from teh base of he mountain.
HP figures dont give the whole picture.
(b) Even if we manage to reach it , how long can we use this power ?
This means once you manage to reach this engine speed/rpm what next? You have spent some time reaching this rpm how long will it last? For how long can you mantain that rpm to harness this power ?
On road/track is it practical ? You may have to brake, take corners etc causing the rpm to drop again below the number at which we get peak power.
Also if you give too much throttle you may exceed the rpm the engine makes the most power and engine will be only making noise not power therfore not accelarating.
The width of the power band also matters combined with your gearing and final drive. This is what determines how long will you be riding that wave of torque and accelarating hard.
This advertised power is peak power, it doesn't tell us the whole story
Gearing/Final drive/Tyre size +Power/Wt ratio :
Many aftermarket tuners enthusiasts look at dyno numbers and get impressed if they see a 10-20 bhp bump in power. This is not an indicator of how much performance will be realised on the road.
It depends on your gearing ratio/final drive/tyre size combination to lay down that "power(actually is torque)" of engine on the road...
Let me explain this with an example - Car C1 with same engine but with diff gearing and tyres makes hell of a difference. E.g if the power band is near 4000 rpm, having torque of 150 Nm at 4000 rpm and engine makes 130 bhp at say 5500 rpm, the gearing and stock tyre size allows the car to travel at 80Kmh/50Mph at say 3000 rpm. With a smaller tyre size and a lower gear ratio the same car at 4000 rpm now travels at 80Kmh/50 mph. See now the engine is in the power band and will respond to quick blip of the throttle.
Now taking the same car and comparing it to another car say C2 with power of 200 bhp @ 6000 rpm, torque of 180NM at 5000 rpm.
The difference in power is 70 BHP - based on BHP specs we have a winner, car C2 wins on paper
The difference in torque is 30 NM - based on torque specs we have a winner,car C2 wins.on paper
But based on gearing and overall wt of the car C2 is a loser against C1.
C1's gearing and torque has been optimised to make max use of the engines torque and does not lay stress on the peak hp figures.. its just a marketting gimmick.
99.99 % of the people look at the HP and pay extra 10 to 20K$ for this.
Dont beleive me - look at a real world example.
BMW M1 vs BMW M3
M1= 335 BHP, 6 cylinder, 3000 cc, price :46K $
M3= 414 BHP,8 cylinders, 4000 cc, price :58K $
Price of M3 justified : 79 more bhp, extra 1000 cc, extra 2 cylinders..therefore extra 12k $
Track tested by BBC Top gear : results M1 is much faster, track is designed to test the real world accelaration, handling, braking.. a bit of brute force power also.
How did it manage to do that -->
M1 makes 332 NM of torque from 1500 rpm to 4500 rpm, supposedly bigger, powerful, more expensive M3 makes 295 NM of torque at 3900 rpm
The M1 can pull; anytime anywhere.. people just dont get it.
Along same lines no one belives If I said a slightly modified 50 BHP 3 cylinder, 800 cc, 4 valve SOHC, 600 Kg hatchback can mess with 70 to 90 bhp , 4 cylinder, 1100 cc to 1300 cc engines.. :-) or even 2600 cc diesel SUVs :-)
They weigh approximately the same etc.
if you are an enthusiast that just about sounds like the right recipie.
I too used to compare the BHP figures and think that more power is better.
This not just applies to buying cars but also aftermarket modifications and tuning.
If you are the techie types - you may even look at the manufacturer's or tuner's dyno chart to confirm which car has more power.
Guys there is more to it -much more.
Lets start with the basics :
1] Engines dont make BHP. Period. Engines make torque.
2] The pistons convert the Air/Fuel explosion into downward motion, the crank converts this "kick" into rotational motion. This rotational motion turns your fly wheel, the gearbox connects to flywheel via the clutch and transfers power to the wheels which then rotate.
3] The important point in the above point is rotational force generated by the engine. This is torque in a simplified description.
4] What about BHP ? oh ya forgot about that - its calculated off the torque..
hp = [torque x rpm ] / 5252
The combination of torque and rpm results in power..
5]Simply put - going faster means accelarating harder and quickly. It's this rate of change of speed gives us accelaration = faster car.
6]BHP advertised is always the max power that can be generated by an engine, the question we should be asking is at what rpm ? i.e at what speed the engine must be running at to actually use this power ?
Remember point no 4 , Hp= resultant of rpm and torque.
We could be getting 300 bhp at say 6800 rpm from car1 Vs 240 bhp @ 5500 rpm from car2
Here we need to ask 3 questions:
(a) How long does it take to reach this 6800 rpm as its way up in the rpm range ?
It takes time to build up this rpm, you could end up spending more time waiting to reach this high engine speed only after which you would experience this power..Also during every gear change the engine rpm would drop and again you would spend time building up the speed to reach that range.
Its like climbing a mountain for 8hrs, reaching the peak and spending 2 minutes at the peak before sliding off.. and again having to restart from teh base of he mountain.
HP figures dont give the whole picture.
(b) Even if we manage to reach it , how long can we use this power ?
This means once you manage to reach this engine speed/rpm what next? You have spent some time reaching this rpm how long will it last? For how long can you mantain that rpm to harness this power ?
On road/track is it practical ? You may have to brake, take corners etc causing the rpm to drop again below the number at which we get peak power.
Also if you give too much throttle you may exceed the rpm the engine makes the most power and engine will be only making noise not power therfore not accelarating.
The width of the power band also matters combined with your gearing and final drive. This is what determines how long will you be riding that wave of torque and accelarating hard.
This advertised power is peak power, it doesn't tell us the whole story
Gearing/Final drive/Tyre size +Power/Wt ratio :
Many aftermarket tuners enthusiasts look at dyno numbers and get impressed if they see a 10-20 bhp bump in power. This is not an indicator of how much performance will be realised on the road.
It depends on your gearing ratio/final drive/tyre size combination to lay down that "power(actually is torque)" of engine on the road...
Let me explain this with an example - Car C1 with same engine but with diff gearing and tyres makes hell of a difference. E.g if the power band is near 4000 rpm, having torque of 150 Nm at 4000 rpm and engine makes 130 bhp at say 5500 rpm, the gearing and stock tyre size allows the car to travel at 80Kmh/50Mph at say 3000 rpm. With a smaller tyre size and a lower gear ratio the same car at 4000 rpm now travels at 80Kmh/50 mph. See now the engine is in the power band and will respond to quick blip of the throttle.
Now taking the same car and comparing it to another car say C2 with power of 200 bhp @ 6000 rpm, torque of 180NM at 5000 rpm.
The difference in power is 70 BHP - based on BHP specs we have a winner, car C2 wins on paper
The difference in torque is 30 NM - based on torque specs we have a winner,car C2 wins.on paper
But based on gearing and overall wt of the car C2 is a loser against C1.
C1's gearing and torque has been optimised to make max use of the engines torque and does not lay stress on the peak hp figures.. its just a marketting gimmick.
99.99 % of the people look at the HP and pay extra 10 to 20K$ for this.
Dont beleive me - look at a real world example.
BMW M1 vs BMW M3
M1= 335 BHP, 6 cylinder, 3000 cc, price :46K $
M3= 414 BHP,8 cylinders, 4000 cc, price :58K $
Price of M3 justified : 79 more bhp, extra 1000 cc, extra 2 cylinders..therefore extra 12k $
Track tested by BBC Top gear : results M1 is much faster, track is designed to test the real world accelaration, handling, braking.. a bit of brute force power also.
How did it manage to do that -->
M1 makes 332 NM of torque from 1500 rpm to 4500 rpm, supposedly bigger, powerful, more expensive M3 makes 295 NM of torque at 3900 rpm
The M1 can pull; anytime anywhere.. people just dont get it.
Along same lines no one belives If I said a slightly modified 50 BHP 3 cylinder, 800 cc, 4 valve SOHC, 600 Kg hatchback can mess with 70 to 90 bhp , 4 cylinder, 1100 cc to 1300 cc engines.. :-) or even 2600 cc diesel SUVs :-)
WTF were they thinking : BOSS 302 - whats the point has it lost its identity?
Whats up with Ford ? cant they get anything right ever ?
Lots of people maybe raving about the new Boss, ok fine it beat the M3 on the track @ Laguna Seca..
Great job Ford...
Now for some other points for some pure Ford's awesomeness:
1] 2 keys ? Blue for regular use and Red for race/track mode:
My thoughts -
[a]LOL , whats up Ford ? copying BMW's M ideas /Honda's Vtec ?
- BMW always had an "M" button to switch between 2 maps for fuelling,ignition, throttle response, suspension etc
-Honda always had vtec , floor it and above 5800 rpm hell breaks loose, diff cam profile, fuelling and ignition curves..
.. I'd summarize this feature as "Yawn".. Ford u guys were always boring and no matter how hard u try u will never get the point.
[b]Another point of view these morons didnt consider - and this is my favourite..
Lets picture this - you are crusing along with the blue key, but along the way you encounter a nice hilly stretch of road with no traffic, naturally you'd want to flex the v8's muscles and see what its got; or another scenario where you'd want to kick a ricer's ass and need to show him who's the Boss .. If I was in a smarter engineered car I would press a button or floor the throttle or simple downshift to unleash power.
Hey but im in a Ford !! Guess what boys and girls what do the Boss owners do ?
Please raise your hands if u think u got the right answer:
Hahahah - Pull over, search for a spot to get off the expressway, switch of your engine and swap the keys or if you are brave or on medication you could attempt to put car in neutral and see if you switch off and swap keys ..
Nice idea - lots of thought must have gone into this awesome innovation.
Red key ..my ass ..morons.
2] Live rear axleC'mon guys, "free online suspension design lesson" for you - please write this down:
Good handling = Not live rear axle, anything but this.
Bad handling = Live rear axle
Guys we usually use some thing called a "independant suspension" on cars..please google it to get an idea of what it does.Hey even some offroaders are moving away from Solid axles to independant suspensions..
Hey who know we may need to do some rock climbing along with the jeeps ..probably would be useful there.
3] Quad pipes : Not buying this gimmick.
How did you design an exhuast header ? was it for the baffle plates closed or open ?
Did u design it with both in mind ?
total compromise of both low end and top end power..
I dont even want to think what happens to the velocity of the exhaust pulses when the baffles are opened ?
Turbulence - like a washing machine..
Exhaust/Header design lesson 1 - mantain exhaust velocity, turbulence = bad.
Unless you are out to design a rice machine..
Also it sounds like the exhaust is cracked/broken ..doesnt sound impressive at all.
4] Front splitter Guys - u are more rice than a mexican in a civic.
Front splitter which is like 1/2 a foot of the ground .. LOL
Even if you lower the car with adjustable shocks ..the overall truck lile aerodynamics are going to kill the whole point of the lowering + splitter etc.
Im now even more sure this car is for the posers/newbies wanting to buy a performance car out of the box..but will end up with a rice aerodynmic body kit.
My fav line - Front splitter ..my ass.
5] 380 lb/ft. @4,500 rpm Let me break this down into simplified terms and what it means to the driver while driving the car on a daily basis.
[1]Consider the gear ratios of the Boss302:
First 3.66
Second 2.43
Third 1.69
Fourth 1.32
Fifth 1.00
Sixth 0.65
[2]And a Final drive 3.73:1
[3] Tyre sizes as provided by the factory : 255/40R-19 or 285/35R-19
Now the most important question :
Considering the gear ratios and final drive with 19 inch wheels with 40 Profile can we really use that 380 lb/foot of torque at 4600 rpm.
--> 380 lb/ft = 514 NM in metric.
i.e 514 NM @ 4600 rpm
E.g normal road cars usually cruise at 2500 to 3500 rpm on freeways..
At these speeds the boss 302 engine is outside of its power band.
At 2500 Rpm the road speeds are calculated as :
1st gear :15mph
2nd gear :22mph
3rd gear :32mph
4th gear :41mph
5th gear :54mph
6th gear :82mph
Seems a bit slow, lets try 3500 rpm
1st gear :20mph
2nd gear :31mph
3rd gear :44mph
4th gear :57mph
5th gear :75mph
6th gear :115mph
Ok this seems reasonable, Im tying to cruise @ respectable speeds in CA..
I'm able to remain in 5th gear and do 75 mph @ 3500 rpm..not going to over drive coz I want to retain the capability to quickly overtake and change lanes ...
Observation - Im no where near the power band, Im not using the 512 NM as yet.
Now if I really wanted to use it I'd have to travel at 4500 rpm, so If I tap the throttle and climb to 4500 rpm what happens to my road speed?
Here are the figures with respect to gearing/final drive tyre etc etc
1st gear :26mph
2nd gear :40mph
3rd gear :57mph
4th gear :73mph
5th gear :96mph
6th gear :148mph
Oh no - dangerously into the speeding ticket zone.
So I will need to downshift to 4th to be able to ride the torque wave..
To understand what that feels like, just try and reach 4500 rpm in ur current car just to see how high that is..
..This makes it clear what this engine+gear bix+final drive +tyre combination means:
Its not a muscle car anymore,
Ford u got it wrong again - the Boss should be a torque monster not a screamer to carry its own heavy ass around.
With a kerb weight of 3600 pounds = 1632 kg = 1.6 tonnes ..
I need torque from down below from 1500/1800 rpm to haul this 1.6 tonnes of flab to respectable speeds and be able to cruise the way an "American muscle" car should.
Ideally a Muscle car = Heavy sedan/coupe with a massive V8 with a brutal bulldozer like shove of torque from way down in the rev range.and not a 7500 rpm screamer...
Hey V8s are not screamers ..leave the hi revs to the Wankels and Vtecs.
concentrate on width of power band instead of peak figures becoz the 302 is no agile/light wt sports car to simply point and shoot with the tacho at 6500 rpm.
Wake up guys and go back to the drawing board.
512 NM ..my ***
Lots of people maybe raving about the new Boss, ok fine it beat the M3 on the track @ Laguna Seca..
Great job Ford...
Now for some other points for some pure Ford's awesomeness:
1] 2 keys ? Blue for regular use and Red for race/track mode:
My thoughts -
[a]LOL , whats up Ford ? copying BMW's M ideas /Honda's Vtec ?
- BMW always had an "M" button to switch between 2 maps for fuelling,ignition, throttle response, suspension etc
-Honda always had vtec , floor it and above 5800 rpm hell breaks loose, diff cam profile, fuelling and ignition curves..
.. I'd summarize this feature as "Yawn".. Ford u guys were always boring and no matter how hard u try u will never get the point.
[b]Another point of view these morons didnt consider - and this is my favourite..
Lets picture this - you are crusing along with the blue key, but along the way you encounter a nice hilly stretch of road with no traffic, naturally you'd want to flex the v8's muscles and see what its got; or another scenario where you'd want to kick a ricer's ass and need to show him who's the Boss .. If I was in a smarter engineered car I would press a button or floor the throttle or simple downshift to unleash power.
Hey but im in a Ford !! Guess what boys and girls what do the Boss owners do ?
Please raise your hands if u think u got the right answer:
Hahahah - Pull over, search for a spot to get off the expressway, switch of your engine and swap the keys or if you are brave or on medication you could attempt to put car in neutral and see if you switch off and swap keys ..
Nice idea - lots of thought must have gone into this awesome innovation.
Red key ..my ass ..morons.
2] Live rear axleC'mon guys, "free online suspension design lesson" for you - please write this down:
Good handling = Not live rear axle, anything but this.
Bad handling = Live rear axle
Guys we usually use some thing called a "independant suspension" on cars..please google it to get an idea of what it does.Hey even some offroaders are moving away from Solid axles to independant suspensions..
Hey who know we may need to do some rock climbing along with the jeeps ..probably would be useful there.
3] Quad pipes : Not buying this gimmick.
How did you design an exhuast header ? was it for the baffle plates closed or open ?
Did u design it with both in mind ?
total compromise of both low end and top end power..
I dont even want to think what happens to the velocity of the exhaust pulses when the baffles are opened ?
Turbulence - like a washing machine..
Exhaust/Header design lesson 1 - mantain exhaust velocity, turbulence = bad.
Unless you are out to design a rice machine..
Also it sounds like the exhaust is cracked/broken ..doesnt sound impressive at all.
4] Front splitter Guys - u are more rice than a mexican in a civic.
Front splitter which is like 1/2 a foot of the ground .. LOL
Even if you lower the car with adjustable shocks ..the overall truck lile aerodynamics are going to kill the whole point of the lowering + splitter etc.
Im now even more sure this car is for the posers/newbies wanting to buy a performance car out of the box..but will end up with a rice aerodynmic body kit.
My fav line - Front splitter ..my ass.
5] 380 lb/ft. @4,500 rpm Let me break this down into simplified terms and what it means to the driver while driving the car on a daily basis.
[1]Consider the gear ratios of the Boss302:
First 3.66
Second 2.43
Third 1.69
Fourth 1.32
Fifth 1.00
Sixth 0.65
[2]And a Final drive 3.73:1
[3] Tyre sizes as provided by the factory : 255/40R-19 or 285/35R-19
Now the most important question :
Considering the gear ratios and final drive with 19 inch wheels with 40 Profile can we really use that 380 lb/foot of torque at 4600 rpm.
--> 380 lb/ft = 514 NM in metric.
i.e 514 NM @ 4600 rpm
E.g normal road cars usually cruise at 2500 to 3500 rpm on freeways..
At these speeds the boss 302 engine is outside of its power band.
At 2500 Rpm the road speeds are calculated as :
1st gear :15mph
2nd gear :22mph
3rd gear :32mph
4th gear :41mph
5th gear :54mph
6th gear :82mph
Seems a bit slow, lets try 3500 rpm
1st gear :20mph
2nd gear :31mph
3rd gear :44mph
4th gear :57mph
5th gear :75mph
6th gear :115mph
Ok this seems reasonable, Im tying to cruise @ respectable speeds in CA..
I'm able to remain in 5th gear and do 75 mph @ 3500 rpm..not going to over drive coz I want to retain the capability to quickly overtake and change lanes ...
Observation - Im no where near the power band, Im not using the 512 NM as yet.
Now if I really wanted to use it I'd have to travel at 4500 rpm, so If I tap the throttle and climb to 4500 rpm what happens to my road speed?
Here are the figures with respect to gearing/final drive tyre etc etc
1st gear :26mph
2nd gear :40mph
3rd gear :57mph
4th gear :73mph
5th gear :96mph
6th gear :148mph
Oh no - dangerously into the speeding ticket zone.
So I will need to downshift to 4th to be able to ride the torque wave..
To understand what that feels like, just try and reach 4500 rpm in ur current car just to see how high that is..
..This makes it clear what this engine+gear bix+final drive +tyre combination means:
Its not a muscle car anymore,
Ford u got it wrong again - the Boss should be a torque monster not a screamer to carry its own heavy ass around.
With a kerb weight of 3600 pounds = 1632 kg = 1.6 tonnes ..
I need torque from down below from 1500/1800 rpm to haul this 1.6 tonnes of flab to respectable speeds and be able to cruise the way an "American muscle" car should.
Ideally a Muscle car = Heavy sedan/coupe with a massive V8 with a brutal bulldozer like shove of torque from way down in the rev range.and not a 7500 rpm screamer...
Hey V8s are not screamers ..leave the hi revs to the Wankels and Vtecs.
concentrate on width of power band instead of peak figures becoz the 302 is no agile/light wt sports car to simply point and shoot with the tacho at 6500 rpm.
Wake up guys and go back to the drawing board.
512 NM ..my ***
Tuesday 20 September 2011
cams :tappet clearance importance
Tappet clearance is a very important part of performance of an engine.
What is it and why is it so important ?
Taking example of a typical engine with a valve train having a SOHC, rocker arms, 4 valves..
To make the basics clear in this scenario : the cam follower i.e the rocker arm contacts the cam surface at one end and the valve at the other. The rocker is pivoted like a see-saw in the middle.
Since in the SOHC design there is a distance which has to be bridged between the cam lobe and the valve the rocker is usually long to account for this.
When the cam rotates the profile pushes the rocker arm up, this translates into the other end pushing the valve down.
Now there is a slight gap/clearance between the cam's surface and the follower.
Why this gap ?
Simple answer : To account for expansion of the valves while getting heated. If the valve expands it would not seat properly, it would be partially open
Due to expansion the valve end in contact with the rocker arm whose other end should be ideally touching the base circle of the cam would be partially pushed in. This is wrong as the valve should be closed and seated perfectly sealing the port during the time the follower is on the base circle of the cam.
But due to expansion due to heat this is not perfectly seated...its being pushed in and therefore partially open.
Now if we add some clearance between the follower and the cam(base circle portion) we will be able to allow this mechanism to expand for a few mm.
This simple problem was solved by a simple solution of providing a small clearance.. so far so good.
BUT doesn't this create a certain amount of wasted rotation of the camshaft to bring the surface of the lobe in contact with the cam follower ?
In more technical terms this gap would create some amount of delay in the time required for the follower to contact the flank.Here flank is that portion of the cam which provied the actual lift for a specific duration(note ..I always say duration and lift together)
Due to this clearance we introduced there will be a reduction of the time the follower would have spent in contact with the cam flank.
Just to exaggerate a bit to make this clear : say 30 degrees of the camshaft were spent in rotating the cam in bringing the flank closer to the follower and bridge the gap.
Since 30 degree of rotation was used up the follower gets a little less time in contact with the cam.
This could mean lesser time spent in opening the valve
So if we designed a cam for x degrees to keep the valve open , it would be (x-30) degrees now due to this delay.
To account for this clearance the cams are designed accordingly - their base circle is chopped of slightly by = tappet clearance distance.
This way the flank begins to open a bit sooner instead of waiting to be contacted by the follower.
Now we understand that tappet clearance is very critical to the cam performance.
The best setting for clarance is specified by the manufacturer, if set perfectly the valve will be seated during the time the base circle of the cam is in contact and will open the valve as per the caculated duration just at the right time.
Too much clearance = reduction in opening of the valves,valves open late, the rocker arm with the follower comes in contact a bit later and in turn opens the valve later .Also it will create the characteristic noisy clatter after heating up almost similar to a diesel engine.
Too less clearance = valves remaining open for a longer time,loss of power.
Extremely tight = valves not closing completely during the base circle contact and allowing the hot gas to keep flowing and burning the valves.Intake valves can also get burnt like the Exhaust valves.
The behaviour/feel of the engine and the exhaust note will clarly indicate if you have got it right ..
A good test would be to let the car idle till it gets hot.
After getting hot this clearance begins to play a more significant role.
During idle:
-If the idle remains constant and smooth you are good to go.
-If the engine begins to stumble or the idle becomes rough it means you didnt leave enough clearance
During driving:
If the idle is smooth and there is no roughness it means we can now drive off and do another check.
-If there is loss of power felt then it means tappet is still a bit to tight, try for the next bigger (+ .0xx mm) gauge.
-If there is that noise again then it means you are still loose ; go for the next lower setting (-0.xx mm) gauge
I suggest you go for the setting in 2 stages :1st make sure the feeler gauge just fits and slides a bit tight, if this does not work then go for the next .00x setting but this time let it slide smoothly.
Also always remember to inspect with gauge again after tightening the locknuts just to make sure it didn't shift.
Once you get it right - note it down and try to set it to same.
Not necessary it will work on all cars with same setting but its a good place to start as a refernce point.
Each cars cam/rocker follower/tappet wear out differently and diff levels of carbon build ups therefore each engine may not respond in same way.
What is it and why is it so important ?
Taking example of a typical engine with a valve train having a SOHC, rocker arms, 4 valves..
To make the basics clear in this scenario : the cam follower i.e the rocker arm contacts the cam surface at one end and the valve at the other. The rocker is pivoted like a see-saw in the middle.
Since in the SOHC design there is a distance which has to be bridged between the cam lobe and the valve the rocker is usually long to account for this.
When the cam rotates the profile pushes the rocker arm up, this translates into the other end pushing the valve down.
Now there is a slight gap/clearance between the cam's surface and the follower.
Why this gap ?
Simple answer : To account for expansion of the valves while getting heated. If the valve expands it would not seat properly, it would be partially open
Due to expansion the valve end in contact with the rocker arm whose other end should be ideally touching the base circle of the cam would be partially pushed in. This is wrong as the valve should be closed and seated perfectly sealing the port during the time the follower is on the base circle of the cam.
But due to expansion due to heat this is not perfectly seated...its being pushed in and therefore partially open.
Now if we add some clearance between the follower and the cam(base circle portion) we will be able to allow this mechanism to expand for a few mm.
This simple problem was solved by a simple solution of providing a small clearance.. so far so good.
BUT doesn't this create a certain amount of wasted rotation of the camshaft to bring the surface of the lobe in contact with the cam follower ?
In more technical terms this gap would create some amount of delay in the time required for the follower to contact the flank.Here flank is that portion of the cam which provied the actual lift for a specific duration(note ..I always say duration and lift together)
Due to this clearance we introduced there will be a reduction of the time the follower would have spent in contact with the cam flank.
Just to exaggerate a bit to make this clear : say 30 degrees of the camshaft were spent in rotating the cam in bringing the flank closer to the follower and bridge the gap.
Since 30 degree of rotation was used up the follower gets a little less time in contact with the cam.
This could mean lesser time spent in opening the valve
So if we designed a cam for x degrees to keep the valve open , it would be (x-30) degrees now due to this delay.
To account for this clearance the cams are designed accordingly - their base circle is chopped of slightly by = tappet clearance distance.
This way the flank begins to open a bit sooner instead of waiting to be contacted by the follower.
Now we understand that tappet clearance is very critical to the cam performance.
The best setting for clarance is specified by the manufacturer, if set perfectly the valve will be seated during the time the base circle of the cam is in contact and will open the valve as per the caculated duration just at the right time.
Too much clearance = reduction in opening of the valves,valves open late, the rocker arm with the follower comes in contact a bit later and in turn opens the valve later .Also it will create the characteristic noisy clatter after heating up almost similar to a diesel engine.
Too less clearance = valves remaining open for a longer time,loss of power.
Extremely tight = valves not closing completely during the base circle contact and allowing the hot gas to keep flowing and burning the valves.Intake valves can also get burnt like the Exhaust valves.
The behaviour/feel of the engine and the exhaust note will clarly indicate if you have got it right ..
A good test would be to let the car idle till it gets hot.
After getting hot this clearance begins to play a more significant role.
During idle:
-If the idle remains constant and smooth you are good to go.
-If the engine begins to stumble or the idle becomes rough it means you didnt leave enough clearance
During driving:
If the idle is smooth and there is no roughness it means we can now drive off and do another check.
-If there is loss of power felt then it means tappet is still a bit to tight, try for the next bigger (+ .0xx mm) gauge.
-If there is that noise again then it means you are still loose ; go for the next lower setting (-0.xx mm) gauge
I suggest you go for the setting in 2 stages :1st make sure the feeler gauge just fits and slides a bit tight, if this does not work then go for the next .00x setting but this time let it slide smoothly.
Also always remember to inspect with gauge again after tightening the locknuts just to make sure it didn't shift.
Once you get it right - note it down and try to set it to same.
Not necessary it will work on all cars with same setting but its a good place to start as a refernce point.
Each cars cam/rocker follower/tappet wear out differently and diff levels of carbon build ups therefore each engine may not respond in same way.
Sunday 18 September 2011
Morons always reverse and park their cars facing outwards
I'm trying to find a parking spot in a busy downtown shopping mall.
I could see some spots open but then what's up ?whats holding up the queue ahead ?
Its the smart ass trying to park his car facing the right way!!
I just dont get it.. whats the point ?
It is tougher to park in reverse, it takes up more time, it holds up people and blocks both lanes.
While parking into the slot : (1)The driver will 1st go forward and into the opposing lane instead of simply turning into the slot.This will hold the opposite lane as well as your own lane. Nice job smart guy.(2) Now the driver will reverse into the slot, its slower and tougher to back into a slot going backwards u stupid moron.Reversing into an open area is easier then reversing into a limited parking slot..get it ?
So by now car is parked. (3)Here are the additional disadvantage I can see - if you have a wall then your boot is now close to it..try and load stuff into your boot after you come back from shopping.
But hey who cares this guy will load stuff into his boot while holding up traffic again..
While getting out of the slot :
(1)Its the same while getting out. Since the steerable wheels are now facing outside the turning radius is reduced. The car will have to travel slightly further to get the tail end of the car out of the slot before being able to turn the steering to full lock and drive away.(2)So now this guy will go into the opposing lane and then start turning which will take more space.
Morons dont get it ? If you face the road doesn't mean its faster to get in or out.
Its like that Ostrich thingy where these birds think they are safe by burying their head in the sand.. vaguely similar analogy - these retards face the exit so they think its faster/convenient ? or fun ?whatever..
Other technique used by 99% of the normal people - find a slot, simply drive into it.To leave : back out till you can get your front wheels turned just enough to face the right way. Now drive off.
I could see some spots open but then what's up ?whats holding up the queue ahead ?
Its the smart ass trying to park his car facing the right way!!
I just dont get it.. whats the point ?
It is tougher to park in reverse, it takes up more time, it holds up people and blocks both lanes.
While parking into the slot : (1)The driver will 1st go forward and into the opposing lane instead of simply turning into the slot.This will hold the opposite lane as well as your own lane. Nice job smart guy.(2) Now the driver will reverse into the slot, its slower and tougher to back into a slot going backwards u stupid moron.Reversing into an open area is easier then reversing into a limited parking slot..get it ?
So by now car is parked. (3)Here are the additional disadvantage I can see - if you have a wall then your boot is now close to it..try and load stuff into your boot after you come back from shopping.
But hey who cares this guy will load stuff into his boot while holding up traffic again..
While getting out of the slot :
(1)Its the same while getting out. Since the steerable wheels are now facing outside the turning radius is reduced. The car will have to travel slightly further to get the tail end of the car out of the slot before being able to turn the steering to full lock and drive away.(2)So now this guy will go into the opposing lane and then start turning which will take more space.
Morons dont get it ? If you face the road doesn't mean its faster to get in or out.
Its like that Ostrich thingy where these birds think they are safe by burying their head in the sand.. vaguely similar analogy - these retards face the exit so they think its faster/convenient ? or fun ?whatever..
Other technique used by 99% of the normal people - find a slot, simply drive into it.To leave : back out till you can get your front wheels turned just enough to face the right way. Now drive off.
Saturday 17 September 2011
Blood group or Octane rating ?
Really how much of petrol content do you have in your blood ?
Not much ?quite a lot or you actually have an Octane rating instead of a Blood group to be relevant?
Do you get all upset if the engine didnt feel right today ? was it the heat was it the bad fuel or was it the ignition or the tappets ?
Love the way the exhaust sounds and not one opportunity is missed to hear that exhaust growl or lazily burble/pop on the over run?
Crazy enough to do a "down-shift syncro rev match" in city driving...?
Gear shifts are timed perfectly with tacho or the feel of the car..
Missing a doctor's apointment or a meeting is ok..hey shit happens. BUT never a car servicing schedule.
If the oil is a .5 mm higher than the upper mark on the dip stick its a crime ?
Who cares how long the destination is or how beautful the scenery is as long as the engine remains in the power band..
Pinging/knocking will trigger a heart attack.. and worse if its your own engine ..
You know what your clutch smells like and of course burnt rubber ..
Nothing sounds better than an overlapping cam trying to breathe at idle..
Statistics like rod-stroke ratio, gear ratio, drive ratio, air-fuel ratio mean more then what mileage can be derived from tankful then u are on the right track..
If you can still relate to stuff here and are guilty of some or all of the above u know its too late ..you are addicted. The car Gods will be happy..
Not much ?quite a lot or you actually have an Octane rating instead of a Blood group to be relevant?
Do you get all upset if the engine didnt feel right today ? was it the heat was it the bad fuel or was it the ignition or the tappets ?
Love the way the exhaust sounds and not one opportunity is missed to hear that exhaust growl or lazily burble/pop on the over run?
Crazy enough to do a "down-shift syncro rev match" in city driving...?
Gear shifts are timed perfectly with tacho or the feel of the car..
Missing a doctor's apointment or a meeting is ok..hey shit happens. BUT never a car servicing schedule.
If the oil is a .5 mm higher than the upper mark on the dip stick its a crime ?
Who cares how long the destination is or how beautful the scenery is as long as the engine remains in the power band..
Pinging/knocking will trigger a heart attack.. and worse if its your own engine ..
You know what your clutch smells like and of course burnt rubber ..
Nothing sounds better than an overlapping cam trying to breathe at idle..
Statistics like rod-stroke ratio, gear ratio, drive ratio, air-fuel ratio mean more then what mileage can be derived from tankful then u are on the right track..
If you can still relate to stuff here and are guilty of some or all of the above u know its too late ..you are addicted. The car Gods will be happy..
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